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Are Garden Log Cabins Rainproof?

Are garden timber cabins water resistant is a question we got asked all the time here at garden log cabins.

 

The short simple answer to your question is an unqualified yes!

 

Why would they not be?

 

Well, let’s take a look at some of the plausible troubles with a log cabin which would make the timber cabin not water resistant and fairly frankly not fit for purpose.The main thing to look at instantly is the roof structure, that’s where you would envision the main trouble would begin (this is not always the situation but that’s where we will begin today). The main trouble with the roof structure would be to have the felt or shingling to not be set up properly. This is fairly easily done if this is something you have never done before and why it should always be carried out by a qualified professional especially if you are spending a lot of your hard earned cash on a log cabin.

 

• Make certain that the overlies are overliing in the proper way. You should always begin felting at the bottom of the building and felt upwards. By doing this you guarantee that the felt overlies on top of the piece of felt that is further down the roof structure. This will guarantee there is a natural run off of the water, if you begin felting at the top of the roof structure and you put the overlap from the bottom pieces over the top of the felt higher up when the rain operates off it will work underneath the felt and therefor trigger a leak. This is precisely the same when doing shingles, make certain you set up from bottom upwards.

 

• Make certain the overlies of the felt/shingles are fairly generous. You don’t want them to be just barely overliing because this could trigger rainwater to get between the felt sheets and this will trigger a leak

 

• Make certain you use more than enough felt nails. Ideally you want to be spacing the felt nails around 6 inches apart from each other. Always do this on both sides of the felt and dependent on the quality of the felt you are using possibly put another row of pin in the middle,possibly two rows but again this depends on the quality of the felt. Failure to put enough felt pin in there could result in the felt blowing off during a bad storm which would then leave your building exposed to leakages.

 

• It is in addition vital that when you reach the overhang of the building with the felt you attach the felt to side of the roof structure but DO NOT tuck the felt underneath the overhang of the roof structure as this limits the natural run off of the water. This can trigger premature rotting of the building and in some situations trigger the roof structure to leak around the top corners of the building as water could build up.

 

• Make certain you use the right size fixings. If the roof boards on your building are let’s say 10mm, you don’t want felt nails of 16mm. Doing this would trigger the felt nails to come completely through the roof structure. This would not look cosmetically appealing and would in addition be a real option of a leak in the building. They way felt is now designed,there should be a watertight seal around the nail but throughout the seasons with wear and tear this may fail resulting in a leak.

 

• The most typically forgotten area on a log cabin building is the felt or shingles on the roof structure. This is primarily because we can’t see it most of the time and it’s a lot more difficult to get up there and have a look,but this is precisely what you should do and I would encourage at least once a year or if you notice a leak. Because timber cabins are not built as high as the typical house and the felt and shingles aren’t fairly as tough and resilient as a normal house tile they require a little more focus. They are exposed to more elements on a daily basis because they are lower, this can result in a number of things from falling debris from trees, or another example would be a kids’s toys getting thrown up there which would all trigger damage to the felt/shingles. Not to mention lots of bird droppings can rot the felt if it is in an area where natural rainwater can not permeate it to create a natural run off and cleaning system (for example if your timber cabin sits under a tree).

 

Timberdise set up all of our timber cabins, we do this because we know you are investing a lot of cash into a log cabin and you want it to be around for a long period of time. So the best way we can guarantee this occurs is to take care of the installation and make certain it is set up properly. We’ve been out to repair timber cabins in the past built by non-skilled people and if the building is not put together properly then number one it won’t be safe but in addition it could trigger a failure in the building to be water resistant.

 

A prime example of this would be that the logs haven’t been constructed properly on the walls. This would then trigger the timber cabin to differ from the design as it was intended to be. At this point when the roof structure was set up there might be spaces between the roof structure and the wall. Spaces could in addition appear on the walls of the timber cabins themselves and in some situations if the initial build of the timber cabin was so bad you would have no choice but to take down the timber cabin and reconstruct it.

 

This is why View our products set up all of our timber cabins so you don’t have this to worry about. As you can envision if there is a gap in the wall or a gap between the roof structure and the wall this would leave the log cabin open and it would most definitely leak which is what we want to avoid at all costs.

 

I in addition want to bring focus to the floor surface a second. Having your timber cabin set up on a proper ground base is a must. That could be a Timberdise ground base,cement base or a paved area. As long as they’re flat, level and solid you should be ok. Be mindful of where you put the log cabin,don’t put it anywhere that is at risk of flooding as just like the house that you live in. If the water level rises and there is no getaway for it then the timber cabin will flood,that is regardless of how thick and tight your logs are.

 

Lastly let’s talk about sealants around the windows and doors. Make certain after you have treated your log cabin you fit the relevant sealants around the doors and the windows. The log cabins don’t come with these fitted as standard, this is so you can treat the log cabin first and then apply the sealants afterwards. By not fitting the doors and windows with sealants then there’s a chance rainwater could permeate the inside of the log cabin, which again is easily fixed by applying sealants.

 

Additionally, in some cases especially during the winter months, condensation can arise inside a log cabin. This is typical due to the log cabins not having any insulation fitted, it is not a leak and can be fairly typical. We suggest at Timberdise to get a dehumidifier if you have power access in there and leave it operating during the cooler months. This will help take moisture content out of the air and further increase the life-span of your log cabin.

 

If you stick to all the above tips you should have a leak free log cabin for the duration of its life-span which can offer limitless pleasure and relaxation. Bear in mind prevention is more desirable than the cure.